Going to Extremes with Shutter Speed

As you begin to digest more and more this simple rule of exposure, it will soon become clear that the need to pay attention to what aperture choice or shutter speed choice will in fact lead you to conclude that there is but onetruly creatively correct exposure most of the time and this is particularly true as you begin to notice that the world offers up an unlimited supply of motion-filled opportunities. When capturing these motion filled opportunities you will find yourself, more often than not, on either end of the shutter speed spectrum; using fast shutter speeds to freeze the action in crisp sharp detail or using slow shutter speeds and the resulting blur to suggest or imply the motion present. There is rarely a ‘middle ground’ when it comes to the motion-filled world and with that in mind, it won’t be long before you discover that most of your time is being spent on action-filled scenes between 1/500s and 1/1000s OR between 1/4s to 8s

.With my camera and 80-400mm Nikkor zoom mounted on tripod and the lens set to 300mm, I captured Image 9 at f/4 and 1/500s. Image 10 was shot at f/22 and 1/15s. Both exposures are exactly the same in terms of quantitative value, BUT quite different in the arena of ‘creative exposure’. Note how at the wide open aperture of f/4 (Image 9) the splash is frozen in crisp sharp detail but at f/22 (Image 10) that same splash is much more ethereal.

Recording a correct exposure will always be your responsibility, so why not make it a point to make the most deliberately and visually compelling ‘creative’ exposure possible!?

Use of MotioN

When capturing this simple composition of an S-curve on Interstate 5 approaching downtown Seattle, I was presented with six possible options of recording a correct exposure, three of which you see here (Images 6, 7, and 8). In terms of their ‘quantitative value’, all three of these images are exactly the same exposure, BUT one can clearly see that they are vastly different in their creative exposure, with the creative emphasis on the use of motion. It has and will always be my goal to present motion-filled opportunities in the most motion-filled way and more often than not when there is a motion filled scene, the longer the exposure time, the greater the motion is conveyed. In our first example, Image 6 was captured at f/4 for 1/2s, Image 7 was shot at f/8 for 2s and Image 8 was shot at f/16 for 8s. All three of these exposures were made with my Nikon D2X and Nikkor 200-400mm zoom at the focal length of 400mm, mounted on tripod with my ISO set to 100 and my WB set to Cloudy.

An exercise such as this is truly eye-opening. The next time you head out the door to shoot city lights at dusk, there won’t be a lot of hesitation on your part about using the slower shutter speeds, since by this example, the slowest shutter speed exposure had the best effect. (I am assuming that you prefer the third image, the image taken at f/22 for 8s and just so there is no confusion, this is not ‘bracketing’ since they are all the same exposure in terms of their quantitative value. I will cover bracketing and other issues related to “where should I take my meter reading” in a future article)

Exercise

Head outside with your camera set to 200 ISO and a telephoto lens, say a 200mm, and frame up a flower. Once you focus on the flower, shoot six correct exposures, each one using a different aperture and shutter speed. For example, with the aperture set to f/4, you get a correct exposure indication at 1/1000s. Shoot this one exposure and than move on to f/5.6 and then shoot another at 1/500s, f/8 at 1/250s and another at f/11 at 1/125 second, f/16 at 1/60s and finally another at f/22 at 1/30s. You will soon see that all six exposures are correct in their quantitative value, but radically different in their “visual weight”. Note in just these two examples where the first image was shot at f/5.6 at 1/500 second and the second image shot at f/22 at 1/30s. They are the “same” exposure in their quantitative value, but oh my, look at how much busier the background is in the correct exposure taken at f/22 versus the much cleaner and more isolated flower composition of the correct exposure taken at f/5.6 at 1/500s.

All three of these images are exactly the same exposure (Images 3, 4, and 5). Their quantitative volume of aperture, (light) and shutter speed (duration of time) is exactly the same, yet you can clearly see that visually they are each different. All three photographs were taken with my tripod mounted Nikon D2X and 200mm Micro-Nikkor lens.

Image 3 was taken at f/5.6 at a 1/500 second, Image 4 was taken at f/11 at 1/125s and Image 5 was taken at f/22 at 1/30s. Again, their quantitative values are identical, which is to say that the volume of light that passed through the lens and the amount of time that light was allowed to render an image on the CCD or film was the same. When I composed all three of these images, they looked exactly the same inside my cameras viewfinder. Yet when I reviewed these same three exposures on the camera’s digital monitor, they were clearly different and that difference in this case was with their backgrounds.

In Image 3, the background is limited to subtle out-of-focus tones, color and very few shapes. In Image 4, the background begins to offer up a bit more information in both shapes and sharper tones and by Image 5, it’s ‘clear’ that the background, consists of other nearby flowers due to the much greater defined shapes and tones that are presented. All three are the same exposure, but as is often the case, only one, and sometimes two, are the “creatively” correct exposure.

Definition Eos 1000D

Definition sharp images and crisp definitely tastes different for each person, but generally sharp image is the image that displays clear detail and good contrast. Every lover of photography must have longed for sharp and clear images on the results of shooting, including me, EOS 1000D users. Here I write some points that can be done to maximize the EOS 1000D to obtain sharp images:
1 Maintain posture while taking pictures
Taking pictures with the way the handheld must be careful, the human body has many moving parts that can "own" even though we hold, the movement is small but enough to make the camera shake when shooting. Because it is very important for posture control,
Attach the "horses" are good when shooting, and how important it is up comfortable position to shoot and make the body more robust when handling the camera. Usually the position of the elbow pinned to the chest can help strengthen hand grip. Both legs outstretched parallel to the shoulder can also be considered. Do not be shy to make the position a little ridiculous, if it was necessary. For this problem, do not be surprised if it poses a photographer when taking a picture it could be more "excited" than difotonya object.
Rest your body on something solid, walls, fences, large rocks, etc., in order to strengthen the body while taking a picture. Hold their breath when pressing the shutter button, it can help reduce wobble on when the shutter button is pressed. Do a short course, lest we run out of breath. :)

Siluet Photo Technique For Pre-wedding Photograph

There are other elements that do not interfere with the


As a portrait of the other, make sure that there are other elements that don't interfere with the objects you snap away.

In the technique of silhouettes, notes the backgrounds and other objek2 that might distract from objects is essential.

This pair of silhouettes could be interrupted if the car on the right side of the pas ' bump ' with the head of the bride. In the photo below, I actually use another bayangan2 from trees and buildings as a frame to frame this couple. Would that be the focus of this photo is on the couple's silhouette.

Tips dan Trik Fotografi Makro

Use A Macro Lens.


For macro photography, using a macro lens is the most appropriate choice, because the macro lens usually has a 1: 1 magnification even more. In addition to the macro lens, an alternative that can be used in macro photography is an extension tube, reverse ring or close up filters. Read also the inexpensive alternative In macro photography.

Use Manual Focus.

 By using manual focus, I get more accurate than the focus using the auto focus. Several types of lenses rely on sound beeps when focusnya right, but there are also certain types of lenses such as Mpe 65 no beep beep and totally rely on our eyes

About the image macros.

Macro Photography or macro photography are photographs taken at a distance very close to getting a high detail on a small-sized objects such as insects, droplets of dew, arrangement of wooden pencils and others.

Macro photo usually has a ratio of 1: 1 where the resulting image is similar in size to the original objects. Macro photography is currently favored because it is able to show the other side of an object that exists around us, especially macro photos of insects that are themed. These photos of beautiful and unique, but also has a high economic value.

Some of them even used environmental activists to campaign for the preservation of the environment. In this occasion, in keeping with my motto "learn, share and friendship" then I would jot down some macro photography tips and tricks that I normally do as a photografer macro, so that it can be a guide for readers to create a work of art worth are nice and high.